related guides: Tap Drill Sizes | Screws | Metal Working | Decimal Sizes for Letter / Number Drills
Drill Speeds
Quick Summary: Some approximate starting advice is to set the spindle speed between 700-1000 rpms for steel, above 2000 for aluminum, and slow down from there if you get discolored chips or heavy drill bit wear. In most cases the drill press will not be able to supply enough power or speed to follow the below recommendations. A 3/8" drill bit drilling mild steel at the recommended speed and feed could require around 1 hp. Going slower usually doesn't hurt, and will prolong tool life.
Drill press spindle speeds depend on lots of things: the type of material being drilled and its hardness, the hole size, the type / hardness of the drill bit and its sharpness, whether or not a cutting / cooling fluid is used, and the rigidity of the drill and clamp, among others. Also, most speed recommendations are geared towards manufacturing environments where machining time is very expensive. As drilling speed increases productivity goes up, but tooling also wears out faster. The recommendations seek a balance between these two concerns, but this balance is not determined with the pocketbook of someone running a hobbyist or prototype shop in mind.
So, for the hobbyists shop, where longer tool life is probably more important than machining time, and where pushing the speed limit may ruin a valuable prototype, reasonable advice might be to start off at about 75% of the recommended drilling speeds. The "First Guesses" below are already a little slower.
You'll typically see large ranges of recommended speeds for various materials, and some discrepancy between different sources. This is partly due to the large influence the material hardness has on how fast it can be drilled (harder --> slower). Even if the material and its hardness were precisely known, the large number of other factors would require some experimentation. If the chips are smoking, turning brown, or the outer edge of the drill bit is chipping, go slower or add some cutting oil / coolant. (a decent guide to cutting fluid)
In general, a slower-than-recommended spindle speed won't hurt anything except in the case of extremely small drill bits, say smaller than 1/16". With small bits, it's hard to feel resistance from the metal, and therefore, very easy to push down faster than they can remove metal. Using recommended RPMs (spindle rotation speed) mitigates this risk. A tip for drilling extremely small holes is to drill down to the depth stop, and then move it down a 16th of an inch, and repeat. This ensures that too much metal isn't chewed off too quickly.
Feed Rate: This is how fast the drill bit is pushed down. For reference, the recommended rates go from .001" per revolution for bits under 1/8th" to .007" per revolution for 1/2 bits. This, of course, isn't very useful if you're lowering the drill bit by hand. In general, push hard enough to create a continuous chip (note some materials just won't form one--like cast iron), but not so hard that the chips are turning brown or the bit itself is chipping. Slight discoloration of the chips is OK. Don't push as hard right when the bit is about to break through, this will reduce the likelihood of it grabbing and tearing the metal.
Surface Feet per Minute (SFM): Speed recommendations are usually given in SFM, which is the speed a cutter can be pushed in a straight line. On drill bits, the fastest cutting rate is at the circumference, and its rate of travel is equal to the RPM (Revolutions Per Minute) of the bit times the circumference (pi*Diameter). So, the translation between SFM and the RPM speed of a drill bit is:
| Material | Speed Range (SFM) | First Guess (SFM) | RPM recommendations based on First Guess Speeds for various drill bit diameters | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1/8 (.125"); | 1/4 (.25") | 5/16 (.3125") | 3/8 (.375") | 7/16 (.4375") | 1/2 (.5") | |||
| low carbon steel, up to 275 Brinnel hardness | 60-100 | 100 | 3056 | 1528 | 1222 | 1019 | 873 | 764 |
| high carbon / alloy steel, up to 275 Brinnel hardness | 55-85 | 50 | 1528 | 764 | 611 | 509 | 437 | 382 |
| tool steel | 45-60 | 50 | 1528 | 764 | 611 | 509 | 437 | 382 |
| cast Iron | 50-125 | 70 | 2139 | 1070 | 856 | 713 | 611 | 535 |
| aluminum and alloys | 200-300 | 250 | 7639 | 3820 | 3056 | 2546 | 2183 | 1910 |
| brass / bronze high strength bronze may require 70 or less | 150-300 | 200 | 6112 | 3056 | 2445 | 2037 | 1746 | 1528 |
| wood | 300-400 | 300 | 9167 | 4584 | 3667 | 3056 | 2619 | 2292 |
Some considerations for using the above table:
- First, note that the speed recommendations for small bits in aluminum are ridiculously high compared to the max speed of around 3000 RPMs on bench-top drill presses. These numbers are more just for reference, it's fine to go slower, just don't push too hard on the small bits.
- "First Guesses" are based on more typical materials and hardnesses.
- If the material has been hardened, the recommended speed will be substantially lower. If the hardness is above 300 Brinnel, starting at 20-30 SFM isn't a bad idea.
- Note that these values are recommended for HSS (High Speed Steel) drill bits, not carbon steel ones. HSS gets its name because it is able to maintain a reasonably hard cutting edge even while it is red hot. If you're using carbon steel drill bits (unlikely), cut the recommendations in half. If you're using carbide tool bits, up the speeds by 2 to 3 times.
- Adding cooling / cutting fluid may allow speed increases, too, and should be used in any case on steels. Cutting fluid will almost always increase the quality of the cut.
- If the hole is more than 3 diameters deep, consider drill as much as twice as slow since it will be much harder for heat to escape.
- Other site's speed recommendation tables (note the differing opinions!): here | most comprehensive | Wilton drill press instruction guide (very good)
Finally, make sure the machine is spinning the right direction. Mills are often left in reverse...
Feedback and corrections are greatly appreciated.
I have never seen a chart like this before. I’ve got to try this out. From my personal experience working in a rebuild shop, any store bought drill bit set will work for most applications. Standard black oxide bits dull easily but are inexpensive and great for the beginner. Cobalt bits cost more but the do last longer then the black oxide bits. The problem with cobalt bits is that allot of them just have a cobalt tip. Once the tip wares out or brakes you have a really shinny black oxide bit. There are cobalt bits that are completely made out of cobalt, these bits are great for cutting but the bit is brittle. The titanium coated bits are harder then black oxide bits but you run in to the same problem; once dull or broken you have just a plain steel bit again. There are also bits that have a starting tip, these tip work great. The starting tip pilots a small hole for you making starting easier. I bring up dull and broken bits a lot because I found that the best thing to do is have more then one set of bits, black oxide for me, and just sharpen them. I know lots of people do not have the equipment to sharpen drill bits but you can buy an inexpensive bench grinder for $50 and never again go without a sharp bit. You do not need to have a bit sharpener but it does make the job easier. With a new set of Cobalt bit costing a good bit, sharpening is a good way to go. For cooling while cutting I have found the cutting oil/cutting fluid is the best way to go. Water is also a good cooling agent, just get a used spray bottle and go to town. If you are concerned about rust and corrosion from the water, once the drilling is finished spray the work area down with WD-40 and wide clean. You can use WD-40 for cooling while drilling but I have heard that it can lube the drilling site and actually make the bit cut less. One material not mentioned above is plastic or acrylic. Both of theses should be drilled at low speeds. If you go too high you will melt you material at the drill site.
after talking to lots of experience machinists, most seem to just go by feel or until red chips start to fly off. Despite entire chapters on drilling speeds and feeds, I suspect the numbers are just a starting point that has to be fine tuned for the material and drill at hand.
Yeah, I would say that would be the best “chart” as it were. Once anyone has broken or smoked a half dozen drill bits you start to get the feel for it. At two dozen you’re a pro!
:)
(complete instructions)