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Building an Arduinome
This guide largely echos bricktable's (thanks!), with some added bits and pieces.
Parts list:
Both our black and clear acrylic cases come with the following:
- (16) 8-32 screws
- (16) 8-32 nuts
- (4) rubber feed
- (2) 4-40 standoffs
- (1) 2-56 screw (for small arduino mounting hole)
- (5) 2-56 nuts (for small arduino standoff and nut)
- (20) 4-40 .5" screws for buttons
- (20) #4 lock washers
- (22) 4-40 nuts (for standoffs and button screws)
You'll also need:
- arduino Diecimila (or newer versions that accept shields)
- unsped shield
- spark fun buttons and pcbs
- (64) bright LEDs (1000mcd blue LEDs shown) mouser: 604-WP7104PBC/A Both 3mm and 5mm LEDs with .1" lead spacing fit. Standard LEDs will barely show through the buttons, even in low light.
- (64) small-signal diodes
- 8-Bit Shift Register. mouser: 512-MM74HC164N
- 8-Bit PISO Shift Reg, mouser: 511-M74HC165
- 10uF cap
- (3) .1uF caps
- 10 Pin Common Bus Resistor Network, mouser: 266-100K-RC
- (2) 2x8 headers
- (2) 16 pin IDC sockets
- ribbon cable
- (1)single row male headers
- 24 pos. socket, 14 pos. socket, 16 pos. socket
- MAX7721 or MAX7719
- current limiting resistor, see the forward voltage chart here
Starting with software so we can test everything before installing all the screws.
Software: Setting the USB Serial ID, Firmware, ArduinoSerial, Monome Software
Outline: A program called ArduinomeSerial lets monome apps talk to the arduinome. In order for AruinomeSerial to recognize the arduinome, your arduino needs to have a new serial ID programmed into the FTDI USB-to-serial chip, as well as arduinome serial firmware.
Setting the USB Serial ID on the arduino:
- Plug in the arduino
- Download MProg and run it (PC only, any Mac solutions?).
- Tools --> Read and Parse
- In the "USB Serial Number Control" box, check "Use Fixed Serial Number" and type in a number like "a40h-001" or any variation on "a40h-xxx". a40h- is the important part.
- File--> Save As... whatever you like.
- Device Menu --> Program
- It should respond with a "programmed device with..." message.
- The monome forums have more info on this process.
Load the arduinome firmware:
- Download the arduinome firmware. Note: it may look like only the firmware is available, but if you click "arduinome" under package in the download page, you'll find the ArduinomeSerial program. Download ArduinomeSerial, too.
- Use arduino v11 to program the firmware.
- Run ArduinomeSerial. If it lists your serial number under the "Device Settings" box, it found the device.
Hardware: Wiring the button pcbs, Soldering the Unsped PCB, Building the Case.
Install diodes: Make sure the line on the diode matches the silk screen. Trim their leads close (flush cutters!) so they don't interfere with the buttons.
Install LEDs: Ground (shorter lead) is the 2nd hole from the flat side. The 3rd hole connects to the "Blue LED" line.
Wiring the pcbs: Feel free to do this how you like, but we cut 5" & 10" segments of ribbon cable, stripped both ends of the short segments and twisted them together with the stripped ends of the longer segments. Follow the wiring diagram below, and for a more complete schematic, check out cbit's. It's not a bad idea to beep-test (check connection) a few lines between the button pcb and the actual sockets on the unsped pcb.
Note: each blue & switch pair is flipped.
Click image for a larger version.
Solder Components to the unsped pcb:
Note: see here for info on choosing the current limiting resistor. We used a 15k to limit current to 30mA per LED, which was chosen based on the 3.2 forward voltage drop of our LEDs.
Note: we broke off the break-out board because we're not using it in these instructions.
Start building the case by attaching arduino to base:
Put buttons in top face:
Lay the button pcbs on the buttons, secure each with one screw in the middle.
Although not pictured, install the 4-40 lock washers under each nut.
Before completing the case, download the monome_base apps and run monome_test:
Plug in the shield, IDC sockets, and USB cable. See the getting started instructions for a first test. If everything works, proceed ahead.
Continue installing the rest of the 20 button screws, washers and nuts.
Begin installing side panels:
Slide a nut into its slot, and then insert the screw through its corresponding hole.
Finish two sides, and then begin installing the top.
The picture shows all 4 sides installed first, but by doing only two sides first it's easier to grab nuts that may fall inside. Also, the sides of the acrylic have a slight angle, so they'll tilt a small amount if only the top or bottom is attached. Counter this by holding the side in place while securing the top.
When everything is in place, tighten down all screws.
Awesome news, and great guide. I ordered a clear one this morning! Will you guys send an order confirmation or will i only receive the confirmation from google checkout?
Just a brilliant job documenting your progress. This is a welcomed tutorial
The building of this case was made doubly difficult by virtue of the vague instructions. A parts list might help.
could you be specific as to what information is missing / confusing? Did you see the parts list at the top of this blog entry? A lot of effort went into these instructions, please us know what’s missing!
I just completed an arduinome build using these instructions, and everything came off without a hitch. I found the instructions very clear and easy to follow, and didn’t have any issue with the parts lists.
A few recommendations for others about to start a build:
01: I’m not sure why these instructions spec a 10 pin resistor network and have you clip the 10th pin when 9 pin networks are by far the more common device and are what are officially spec’d on the unsped shield. If you’re ordering parts, you’ll have a much easier time getting a 9 pin network.
02: It seems kind of weird that you get two hex standoffs and have to make the third out of a tiny little screw (which was compounded somewhat by the fact that the screw I got in my bag for making the standoff was actually too short by about 1/4") – if you’ve got a third standoff sitting around somewhere, use that.
03: I tried to be all clever and put header pins on all the sparkfun board connections, for ease of soldering the connection wires. This did indeed make things easier, as I could bolt the boards into place to keep them positioned as I soldered the connections, but bear in mind for others who might want to do the same that there’s not a ton of clearance between the bolted on boards and the top of the unsped shield, and you’ll need to trim your header pins to get it to fit. I’m actually considering taking the shield off and mounting it to the side of the Arduino to give me more room inside the case, as I think I’d also like to put some standoffs between the faceplate and the button pads – right now, the buttons stick out by a good 3/8", and I think I’d prefer the buttons to be closer to flush (that’s just me though).
04: If you’re choosing LEDs, bear in mind that the ratings of the LEDs don’t take the non-uniform response of the human eye to the color spectrum into account – so a 1000mcd LED in red is going to look dimmer than a 1000mcd LED in blue, and much dimmer than a 1000mcd LED in green. You might want to err on the side of too bright, and then play with different resistor values for the MAX7719 to get the brightness you want.
05: Also on the LEDs front – pick wide angle diffuse ones, if you can – the Sparkfun pads are really wide, and if you get low-angle LEDs (like 15 degrees or so), your arduinome is going to look like a bunch of dim squares with bright central dots (which you may think looks cool anyway). I artificially diffused up my LEDs with some sandpaper on the domes, and that worked pretty well too.
06: On the case design – the way the walls attach seems kind of funky (like there’s nothing really stopping you from being able to push the sides in), but it actually works pretty well; I’ve tried pushing in on the sides and haven’t been able to get it to collapse inwards with anything less than a rubber mallet.
So yeah – everything worked well, instructions were clear, case looks good. Thanks CI dudes for putting this together!
@infinitemermaid: thanks for all the feedback! I think we may have sent out some kits with #2 screws that were too short. If you got one, email support [at] curiousinventor and we’ll get a replacement in the mail. Regarding the makeshift standoff, we’re still looking for a cheap source for that size. We’re trying to keep the price as low as possible, which is helped out by great rates from ohararp.com on the laser cutting.
The only issue we’ve had with the walls is that sometimes they’ll angle in a little bit if you tighten down one side completely before the others. You can usually get everything to line up if you keep the top and bottom a little loose before tightening.
on the unsped shield pcb, what is that end piece that looks like you can break it off from the pcb (it has space for 2 2×8 headers) ?
Also you refer to the button pad as the Sparkfun button pad but afaik they only made an rgb version. Is this actually the monome button pad or someone elses? maybe I am missing something….
just ordered along with all my IC chips from digikey…am starting on all the diodes….i was going to solder on the led side and snip as short as i could with the impression that the little solder bumps would just kind of sink into the rubber of the button pads and not affect the button or case functionality…is that right? or do i need to solder on the diode side and clip completely flat on the led side in order for it to function right?
Ours seemed to work OK without snipping completely flat.
We just put one LED on the RGB SF pad.
Could someone clarify for me what it means on the diagram when it says “flip” and again below the diagram where it says “each blue & switch pair is flipped” ?
Was a mistake made that is trying to be remedied? I’m confused.
No mistake was made, see the diagram directly above “each blue and switch pair is flipped”. blue & switch refer to the white text on the pcb. Look at the “To: unsped In” picture of the ribbon cable, and note how the brown wire is on the outside while its part of the main ribbon, but the red wire is the top-most wire connected to the pcb.
I understand. Thank you!
Hi, in this tutorial you connect all pins on the arduino to all the pins on the shield. I am using a different enclosure and not mounting the Shield on top of the Arduino, do i need to wire all of these connections or are some of them unused?
Many thanks, great tutorial!!
if you’re not changing the electronics, then you probably need to wire everything up the same.
if you’re not changing the electronics, then you probably need to wire everything up the same.
Hi, i have just completed by first Arduinome build. I used your tutorial and everything worked out first time round Thanks you very much.
Oh, and by the way, only 10 of the 26 connections from the shield to the arduinome need to be connected. You can tell which ones they are if you hold the Shield up to the light, only 10 of the connections are internally connected to the board.
Thank you very much!!
AWESOME! thanks a ton for this manual. I completed my arduinome in about 5 weeks… but I was a total noob… I didnt even know how to solder and anything. Really happy with it, and already have had so much fun with it.
Hey, I stumbled upon your site somehow about a month and a half ago. I was impressed by all of the projects and openness this site offers. Like the previous poster, I was completely new to electronics and had no tools or any knowledge of the components or schematics involved. I play the piano and make music at home for my own pleasure, and I noticed the arduinome and began to research its uses. This guide is very well put, and it had me sold on building my own. So I am very happy to say that mine is built without any problems (other than a vertical smd capacitor manufacturer’s error on my arduino). I may sound ultra-noobish with how excited I am about this project, but that’s because it’s only the beginning of many more to come. Thanks for the excellent resource, and mostly for the inspiration.
(complete instructions)